PendlehomeKZ: Victory Day

Today was the first of a three day celebration commemorating the Soviet victory over the Axis powers in WW II. Few countries suffered as much as the Soviet Union during the war. Kazakhs were recruited and immediately sent to the front. The Kazakhs will point out to me that the Soviets faced 200+ German Army Divisions while the Allies were fighting less than 30. I reply that I understand how each entity was essential to winning the war to which they reply that no single country suffered, on as great a scale, as the Soviet States. It is a discussion that goes nowhere. I am reminded that few civilian casualties were sustained by the US. One invokes Stalingrad and the conversation halts with uncomfortable silence. Hardships were legendary and Kazakh soldiers who fought in the war, especially those that survived, are worshipped as heroes.

Lynne and I were walking through Panfilov Park this morning, the site of the eternal flame and dramatic statuary commentating the "Panfilov 28". '

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panfilov%27s_Twenty-Eight_Guardsmen

While the designation as "hero" became controversial, all of the 28 were "rehabilitated" and are genuinely revered. The park is dominated by a huge memorial that is modeled in the shape of Kazakhstan. All of the WWII statues here are histrionic and dramatic. At first I was cynical about them, a la North Korea. My thinking has evolved to understanding of the culture that built them. WWII was a defining moment for Kazakhstan like so many other States in the Soviet Union.The 70th anniversary of the surrender is important to the fabric of this country, especially in its former capital.

At the site today were survivors of the war proudly displaying the characteristic medals that weigh down one side of their suit coats.

I have become aware of my assimilation, superficial to be sure, into the fabric of this country. I often find myself marvelling that "I am in Kazakhstan!" or" I am in Semey, Kazakhstan!" (formerly closed to the outside world). I have had the extremely good fortune to teach and practice medicine in numerous countries. Afghanistan was exotic, Botswana was remote, South Sudan was way off the grid as was Darfur. But Kazakhstan is a place that I have been fortunate to come to know in an entirely novel capacity. And I feel a kindred with her. So during the celebration I felt a sensation unique in my experience, a sense of pride, welling of tears, acknowledging that the men and women representing the Kazakh community who are of "The Greatest Generation" had survived, then thrived. They have outlived their life expectancy at birth by twice and have earned the right to be honored.

The square was full of army, police, the Kazakh equivalent of ROTC, a hundreds of school children wearing hats, scarves, or carrying flags to identify them in the crowd.

I think the photos speak for themselves. I hope you enjoy.