So a German, an Italian, a Lithuanian, and an American all went out for lunch....

Today my university, Kazakhstan National Medical University Named After SD Asfendyarov (KazNMU) is holding University Days, a celebration of its founding in 1930. Like many countries in this part of the world KazNMU loves pageantry. One enters the foyer of a grand theater and is greeted by beautiful women dressed in traditional clothing with tall peaked hats. There is music and song at the invocation. All of the singers here have amazing voices. As a "visiting Professor" I am some how a bit of a celebrity, unearned in my opinion. Yet it gives me a podium from which to advocate for better training of post graduate medical scholars.

Now stop me if you have heard this before...I and my fellow guest faculty gathered for lunch at a local hotel. I sat with an Italian consultant who advocates for a western model of hospital governance, a Lithuanian physician who teaches master classes at the School of Nursing, and German thoracic and abdominal surgeon. Conversation turned to the EU. The Italian gentleman lamented that Italy once had a central bank whose funds now reside with the EU and that any time she wants to borrow money it is taxed. And she is forbidden from printing more if she needs it. The German lamented that what the EU needed was a dictator but that had been tried in his country with disastrous results and anyway he was fine with the EU. I mentioned that from across the pond the EU seemed like a delightfully dysfunctional family that at once hate each other and then will sit down together for a meal. The Italian, looking for some support from the Lithuanian asked what could possibly make a stable country like Lithuania with a sound currency want to join the EU. She looked at him and said, "Russia?" The three of us howled and the Italian went back to his food.

Last week I was in Semey, due East of Astana. You know Astana,"The coldest capital in the world". I was warned that it was cold up there. I still remember the conversation Lynne and I had before I left. Something like:
Her:"I hear its cold there, shouldn't you get a proper jacket?"
Me:"Nah, I checked and the temperature in Almaty is about they same in Madison, WI. If Bethany endured the weather there than so can I"
Her: "Are you sure?"
Me: "Yep".

I didn't take into account that I might travel north and my ten year old jacket, perfect for Oregon or Louisville, just wouldn't cut it in -30C and 25km/hr wind. Screw the "Real fell", "bloody damn cold" is what is was. I went into a coffee shop to warm up and the barista asked if I wanted it "to go". I felt like saying: "Not unless I want iced coffee after walking 10 meters!" So I politely asked to have it "to stay" and savored the heat if not the taste.

We have had lots of snow with periods of thaw in between so net accumulation is minimal. The other night I was travelling across Panfilov Park and took this cozy little picture:

After being in country for ninety days one registers with the Immigration Police, a truly biblical adventure. It is a bit of a distance away, still I decided to walk there and meet my colleague who is incredibly patient and helpful. We queued up and were told I needed an HIV test. No test, no number. Off we went to the official clinic where this could be done, also across town, but in the opposite direction. Yelena was very circumspect about it all and stated that nothing happens here that takes less than three days. She is a dedicated bus rider so wasn't interested in a taxi. Any car here can be a taxi and all one needs to do is hold your hand out and quickly a car will stop and you can negotiate a price. I always over pay by about 100T which is all of ~75cents. We got there just as the clinic closed of course so with the help of another kind friend I returned the next day to have my blood drawn. That evening he returned for the results and the next day I went back to the Immigration Police.

The worker behind the window couldn't have been more officious. Neatly pressed uniform, no engaging, no help, arbitrary, offering information in incomplete snorts. She would be perfect for the any DMV. Oh and silly me,  I didn't have some infernal document that I needed from the university. So Yelena, still with a smile on her face, and I went to the office there and got what by my count was the fifth document, along with one hole in my arm, and returned. She said she would have it ready by five that afternoon.

I have mostly been on my best behavior here but really have trouble with officiousness. I smoldered as we took the bus back to the Green Bazaar to pick up a package, two as it turned out, from the post. Both werefrom Lynne (!); somw dried apples and some home made peach jam that about exploded out of the jar due to fermentation. I for an instant thought "maybe I could just scrape the bad stuff off the top". Nope, but there were more goodies and it was delightful. Back to the IP and there she was only this time was smiling, gave me the document and indicated that I was, at last, finished. I am registered and now have yet another number that identifies me.