Steppe'n out (photos at the bottom)

Things here in Semey are amazing and at the same time a little uncomfortable for me. I have been wined and dined out of unearned respect and not a little pity given my (preferred) living situation. The meals are typically banquet style with "salad" consisting of many meat based dishes with vegetables and fruit, followed by a huge meat dish, followed by a huge desert tray with tea. Out of tradition, as soon as my plate seems at about 90% capacity someone heaps more food on it. I have taken to becoming a touch animated when pleading no thank you but to no avail. The meals are delicious and hearty to be sure. And you think turkey can put you to sleep? Try a huge mid-day meal of most any meat! Then try to stay awake while being shown the city in a warm car!  Kazakhs are rigthfully proud of their food. American produce really doesn't come close especially the carrots (markov) they are sweet and crunchy. No funny after taste

Semey has become bichromatic: the gray of the concrete apartment buildings and sky against the white of the ice and snow. There are numerous black smoke belching stacks here such that the snow has a layer of "concrete gray" soot less than half a day after it falls. Festive lights line the streets to break the gray and they are welcomed. The temp here is hovering around -20C, about -5F. Not a big deal in my mind but it seems to be the talk of my circle as they wonder if I am OK. Truly an honor but still a little uncomfortable.

People here are typically either Muslim or Orthodox. Sunday I was fortunate to be invited to worship in the only Orthodox cathedral left in Semey after the Soviets demolished the others. I had been invited to an Orthodox service one other time in Sinjar, Iraq and remembered enjoying it. This experience was in rather stark contrast to Iraq as it was quite informal. In Sinjar we sat and were read a proper sermon. Here one enters the church and can purchase candles and other paraphernalia. You can then advance to any one of 15 separate icons, light a candle, kiss the icon or the picture frame of one, and pray. I was blessed by a priest in the reception and icon area, then spent an hour in the main hall where another priest chanted in Russian and Kazakh while people came and went. On two occasions a priest would pass by with incense. Another would give a holy blessing via a taste of wine (same spoon), a kiss on the cross (same spot for all comers) and dispense some bread. All was very choreographed, solemn, and rather informal at the same time.

After the mass I was invited to breakfast with the priests. All are in the middle of a fast until Orthodox Christmas; no meat or wheat, only vegetables and fruit. To say the least it was an honor to be invited. One of the priests is a physician who asked if I like incense and then gave me some of the resin used in the blessing.

That afternoon we went to the forest to a sacred spring to draw water. People come from hundreds of kilometers away to worship the icons there and take from the spring. They also will go to a little cabana just downstream and immerse themselves i a pool three times. This "keeps us healthy Mike and we don't need you!" We had tea in a classic Kazakh home turned truck stop. Lots of home made food, cheap, with good tea.

Monday I was invited to old Semey to visit the Central Mosque. It was warm and most welcoming.

And I finally got out onto the steppe. I felt like I could breathe again. We visited a physician in a village with a clinic that was very reminiscent of those lonely outposts in Botswana. The doc there was excellent, and lonely. When I said that I had lived his life in both Botswana and less so in Menifee County we bonded and talked about life for an hour.

Teaching is going famously and I love the medical community. I find I am able to offer insight into most cases as physicians here make the same mistakes as all over the world; inadequate history, diving too soon into lab, very poor physical exams, and letting someone else tell you what the diagnosis is. There is considerable intimidation from the "government" which can fine you if you don't follow protocol and the patients use this against you. As I don't have a license here I am a touch untouchable, and while not cavalier, I tend to blow all that off.

Yesterday my host asked me to write a quick speech for "the dinner". Uh, dinner? There is a dinner on Sunday, paid for by Abbott, that will have about 100 folks....in my honor. While I am indeed honored, I am a touch terrified as well. I may have become a bit of a recluse what with living by myself and all. I enjoy my community, but don't want to be the center of it. Since I have apparently already drunk the Abbott cool-aid I'll do what B tells me to do, "Smile and nod, Papa, smile and nod"

Large Muslim cemetery out in the steppe from Semey

same

A colleague showing me the emergency kit for allergic reactions
He is out in the middle of no where and has a kit for many
contingencies

His village from a distance

In his home for a feast, and this was just the first course

The steppe, a deep clean breath, and what the hell is this statue doing here

A orthodox gazebo with icons to worship

Where one can take of the waters, just down stream from the
spring. I needs to be full immersion and three times for it
to have the desired effect on ones immune system.

Eurasian Red Squirrel